普拉达推出中国制造

普拉达推出“中国造”

普拉达公司（Prada SpA）这些天来在中国很忙碌。它不仅在中国内地的许多地方开设了门店，上周五还让自己的股票在香港证交所挂牌上市，而且还将越来越多的高端时尚产品拿到中国来生产。

普拉达生产从手袋、鞋子到男女服装等多种产品，该公司目前约20%的产品是在中国生产的。这家总部位于意大利米兰的公司在其首次公开募股（IPO）的招股说明书中说，它也在越南、土耳其和罗马尼亚等其他劳动力成本较低的国家生产产品。除普拉达这个主要品牌外，这家公司还拥有Miu Miu、Church's和Car Shoe等品牌。

普拉达的设计师缪西娅•普拉达（Miuccia Prada）在接受采访时说，其他时尚品牌迟早也会来中国生产产品，因为中国的生产水平是如此之好。她还说，中国人尤其擅长制鞋。

普拉达、古驰（Gucci）和路易威登（Louis Vuitton）等欧洲时尚奢侈品牌因其产品是在法国和意大利生产而建立起了声誉。这些品牌的产品能卖高价一定程度上就是因为法国和意大利高超的生产技术。

但对欧洲奢侈品牌来说，将部分生产业务转移到海外的诱惑正在增加。金融危机给这一产业的营业利润率造成了压力。以英国时尚品牌巴宝莉(Burberry PLC)为例，该公司就因关闭了在英国的一家工厂而将生产业务转移到亚洲而受到攻击。

欧洲的生产能力也是有限的。爱马仕（Hermes）正持续不断地在法国招募接受过两年培训的新工人。路易威登在法国的第12处生产设施虽然本月将开始运营，但它去年却不得不及早关闭了一些门店，因为这些店铺的库存正日益减少。

但奢侈品公司在选择生产地时却不能仅考虑盈亏。在普拉达的母国意大利，“意大利制造”已经成了一个政治问题。身为时尚品公司范思哲（Versace）老板的意大利国会参议员桑图•范思哲（Santo Versace）去年为通过一部“意大利制造”法展开了游说，这部法律将要求设立一个详细的品牌认证体系，以提高服装在源产地方面的透明度。该法律目前正在等待欧盟委员会（European Commission）的批准。

产品要想被标以“意大利制造”，其生产成本的大部分都必须在意大利境内发生才行。而如果普拉达等奢侈品牌在中国生产产品，它们正努力取悦的亚洲消费者可能也会感到不满。奢侈品咨询师布兰齐尼（Armando Branchini）说，虽然中国消费者准备为奢侈品牌产品支付更高的价格，但他们并不希望产品是在中国制造的。

普拉达在中国制造的产品与其在意大利生产的产品在定价上并无不同。该品牌一双坡跟编织鞋最近的售价为455美元，与在意大利生产的凉鞋同价。

Prada Is Making Fashion In China

Prada SpA is busy in China these days. It's not just listing its shares on the Hong Kong stock exchange Friday and opening stores across the mainland. It is also increasingly manufacturing its high-end fashion there.

About 20% of Prada's collections -- which range from bags and shoes to clothes for men and women -- are made in China. The Milan-based company manufactures outside Italy in other cheaper countries such as Vietnam, Turkey and Romania, according to the IPO prospectus. In addition to the main Prada label, the company also owns Miu Miu, Church's and Car Shoe.

'Sooner or later, it will happen to everyone because [Chinese manufacturing] is so good,' Prada designer Miuccia Prada said in an interview. She added that the Chinese are particularly good with shoes.

European luxury fashion labels such as Prada, Gucci and Louis Vuitton have built their reputations on goods crafted at home in France and Italy. Manufacturing skills there in part justify the high prices.

The temptation to move some production abroad is growing, however. The financial crisis put pressure on the industry's operating margins. British label Burberry PLC, for instance, came under fire for closing a factory at home and moving production to Asia.

And production capacity in Europe is limited. Hermes is constantly recruiting new workers in France who undergo a two-year training program. Vuitton is opening its 12th production site in France this month, but it had to close some stores early in the day last year because it was running low on stock.

But there's more than just the bottom line at stake. In Prada's home country, 'Made in Italy' has become a political issue. Santo Versace, an owner of the Versace fashion house and an Italian senator, last year lobbied for a 'Made in Italy' law that called for an elaborate labeling system to make a clothing item's origin more transparent. The law is awaiting approval from the European Commission.

To be labeled 'Made in Italy,' only a majority of the cost of an item's production must take place within the country's borders. Manufacturing in China could also backfire with the customers that brands like Prada are trying to appeal to in Asia. 'Chinese consumers are ready to pay higher prices for luxury brands, but they want products not to be manufactured in China,' says luxury-goods consultant Armando Branchini.

Prada's 'Made in China' items aren't priced any differently than products made in Italy. A pair of woven wedge shoes were recently available for $455, the same price as Italian-made sandals.

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